Don’t overwhelm yourself with which type of fishing line to use on your pole. With all of the factors involved with choosing the right line, it is a good idea to make sure you have best line matched with the type of fishing you’re doing and the lures you plan to use. Here is some information and a guide from an avid bass angler f(via fishound.com) that should help you with your final decision in choosing the type and strength of fishing line that is perfect:
The Top Three Monofilament
The original line of choice for anglers, the last decade has seen its uses diminish. It still does have a time and place.
Since mono line will stretch, as well as float, my topwater rods always have a reel spooled up with this type. I also turn to mono when tossing crankbaits – especially when targeting smallmouth bass. When a smallie hits your crank like a freight train, a line that works as a shock absorber will help keep that fish hooked.
Other advantages to mono are its price, suppleness, reduced line memory, and relative clarity. Downsides include abrasion resistance and lack of sensitivity.
Fluorocarbon line has a long list of qualities. Hands down, it is the most invisible of all lines, since it has the same refractive index as water. For those that fish crystal clear lakes or rivers, or deal with line shy or finicky fish, this is a must to spool up with.
It is this invisibility that also lends itself well for being used as a leader. If you want the toughness of braid but clarity of fluoro, then a section of leader when dropshotting or jigging is highly recommended.
Fluorocarbon line sinks due to its density. This can be advantageous for jigging applications, as baits will reach and stay on bottom better.
For those that fish structure that can wreak havoc on line, the abrasion resistance of fluorocarbon is extremely high.
The lack of stretch it exhibits means a greater sensitivity, making it an ideal candidate for light hitting or finicky fish.
Downsides include spool memory, which greatly increases as tensile strength does. Unless choosing light line, I don’t recommend fluoro for spinning reels. Knot strength can also be compromised as fluoro is quite slippery. Ensure correct knots are used and retie accordingly.
Braid gets the brunt of the work when targeting bass. Due to its strength and toughness, working heavy cover – such as trees, docks, undercuts, and pads – is a breeze.
Line diameter is thin, so acquiring high tensile strength without the bulk that mono or fluoro presents is achievable. Braid also has little to no spool memory, so it always casts far and lays flat.
Braid is extremely sensitive, allowing the angler to feel exactly what their lure is doing, or when a fish bumps the bait.
Although braid can be more costly than mono or fluoro, it can be used for multiple seasons, simply by reversing it on the spool. This is a cost advantage in the long run.
One downside is visibility, so braid isn’t recommended when fishing extremely clear water or when fish are line shy.
Recommended Line Choices:
* Flipping / Pitching – 50 to 65lb test braid; 20 to 25lb test fluoro.
* Topwater – 14 to 17lb test mono (baitcast); 8 to 12lb test mono (spinning).
* Crankbait – 14 to 17lb test mono (baitcast); 8 to 12lb test mono (spinning); 30 to 40lb test braid (baitcast).
* Jigging – 15 to 20lb test braid (spinning); 30 to 40lb test braid (baitcast).
* Dropshot – 15 to 20lb test braid (spinning) w/ 6 to 10lb test fluoro leader.
* Spinnerbait – 30 to 40lb test braid (baitcast).