The Great Northern Mudbug: A Montana Twist on a Southern Classic
While most people associate crawfish with the humid bayous of the South, David Schmetterling is here to remind us that Montana has its own fleet of “freshwater lobsters” just waiting to be invited to dinner. Whether it’s the native signal crayfish out west or the suspiciously well-traveled virile crayfish elsewhere, these crustaceans are ripe for the picking—provided you have a flashlight, a fishing license, and a willingness to get your hands a little wet.
The Catch and the Clean
Schmetterling suggests that catching your meal is half the fun. Whether you’re snorkeling for them, trapping them with a cheesecloth bag of fish guts, or snatching them off the banks at night, the process is delightfully primitive. However, he warns against a few rookie mistakes:
- Keep it Legal: Always check the local regulations and never transport water from a lake or river; bring your own tap water in a cooler instead.
- The “Purge”: Before the pot comes out, the crayfish need a 12-to-24-hour spa day in cold water. This helps them “evacuate their hindgut”—a polite way of saying it cleans out the vein so you don’t have to.
The Main Event: The Modest Montana Boil
Schmetterling’s recipe swaps the massive 100-count social gatherings of the South for a more intimate “modest affair” designed for two to four people. It’s a spicy, aromatic symphony involving a massive stock pot, several gallons of water, and a heavy-handed pour of Zatarain’s and Old Bay.
The Layered Approach: The secret lies in the timing. He starts with a fragrant base of halved lemons, garlic heads, and onions. The potatoes get a 15-minute head start, followed by smoky andouille sausage and corn. The guests of honor—the crayfish—only need a quick five-minute simmer to reach perfection.

To Dump or Not to Dump?
In true Southern fashion, a boil usually ends with the entire pot being dumped unceremoniously onto a newspaper-covered table. However, Schmetterling admits that he and his wife haven’t fully embraced the chaos of the Bayou; being Northerners, they prefer the civility of actual plates. Whether you choose the table-dump or the china, just make sure the hot sauce is within reach.
By David Schmetterling I Preparation time: 30 minutes I Cooking time: 40-45 minutes I Serves 2-4